A Information to the Iconic Paris Flea Market

All of us have no less than one nice journey on our bucket checklist. For some, it’s skydiving over the Dolomites. For me, and maybe different much less bodily inclined vacationers, it was spending a weekend scouring Paris’s iconic flea market Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen for one-of-a-kind treasures that might give me bragging rights for years. (Is there something higher than responding to a praise with “Thanks, I acquired it in Paris”?) Many internationally famend designers supply from the Paris flea, together with Martyn Lawrence Bullard, Timothy Whealon, Frank de Biasi, and Chahan Minassian.
Given the scale and scale of essentially the most well-known flea on the earth—it spans greater than 17 acres—I made a decision to enlist an skilled to navigate its treasures. A couple of calls to French mates led me to David Thomas, an inside designer who has lived and labored in Paris for over 25 years and has designed shops for Goyard and Manolo Blahnik.
We began at Galerie Glustin, a stunning showroom on the outskirts of the flea stewarded by third-generation furnishings sellers. It carries each classic and modern items in a historic residence. The whole lot is merchandised into little rooms and vignettes and accented by the house’s gorgeous centuries-old ornamental molding. It’s the proper amuse-bouche.
“There are 12 official markets and 5 streets with stalls at Saint-Ouen. It’s a distinctive expertise and one in every of France’s nice treasures,” Thomas says. “And every market has its personal traits. Marchés Paul Bert, Serpette, and Biron are the markets I take advantage of essentially the most and have the higher-end items and extra critical furnishings and objects. Vernaison and Malassis are extra funky, however you will discover fantastic treasures.”
You possibly can entry all of the markets from rue des Rosiers, the principle drag of the flea. In the event you’re on the lookout for a straightforward place to get dropped off, have a taxi take you to Le Paul Bert (deal with: 20 rue Paul Bert, discovered on the facet entry to Marché Paul Bert—to not be confused with Bistrot Paul Bert within the eleventh arrondissement). There, you possibly can gas up on French omelets and occasional earlier than you start a day of market-scouring.
In the event you’re planning on critical furnishings buying, Thomas recommends getting your private home’s flooring plans accomplished first, then making a listing of the objects you need for every room, with dimensions, to slender down what you want. I packed my purse with an iPad (there’s normally robust Wi-Fi), goop lip balm (Paris can get fairly dry, relying on the season), and a tape measure (although when you don’t have one, the sellers can at all times measure for you).
“From the checklist, I can then specify which items ought to be ‘wow’ objects that I can supply on the market. However I at all times hold an open thoughts. Generally the unplanned ‘wow’ piece involves you whereas buying, and the room format and furnishings checklist can then be adjusted as wanted,” Thomas says.



If in case you have the luxurious of some days, Estee Stanley, inside designer and founding father of The Eye Agency, advises doing a number of runs: “Do a primary go and put objects on maintain that you simply love. Then take the time to examine measurements and thoughtfully make your choices. However keep in mind, as a result of so many objects are one in every of a form, they go rapidly.”
Whenever you like a chunk however want extra time, ask the supplier to write down down the merchandise, dimensions, and provenance on their card, which has their precise allée (avenue throughout the flea) and stand location so you possibly can simply discover the stall later.
For furnishings, Thomas suggests beginning with Paul Bert and Serpette, the coated market inside Paul Bert, for an outline of the number of items on provide. If you’re trying extra for distinctive objets d’artwork or memorabilia, he recommends Vernaison for its “mixture of treasures and trash” and Biron for nice silver items or ornamental objects.
At Serpette, one in every of my first stops was a stall run by Thomas Bonzom (Marché Serpette, allée 4, stands 14 and 16). I almost cleaned out his assortment, shopping for a stunning classic sofa from the Nineteen Seventies, an impeccably restored Carlo Scarpa chandelier, and a travertine espresso desk.
Most sellers are on the net vintage market 1stDibs, however costs are usually extra reasonably priced on the flea; you bypass the 1stDibs fee and sellers are extra prepared to barter in individual. In the event you hit it off with a supplier or have a mutual pal, they might even open up their warehouse for you, as Joseph from Pheromones (allée 1, stands 116, 118, 120, and 122) kindly did for me. Joseph sells to Raf Simons and different main style names, and he has the type of timeless items I envision residing in an eccentric designer’s Antwerp condominium. I left with two classic benches—one by Charlotte Perriand, whom I’d at all times dreamed of proudly owning a chunk by.
Whereas some stalls could appear intimidating, particularly in case your French is proscribed, Thomas advises entering into and exploring. A smile and easy “bonjour” will normally do, and most of the stalls have hidden nooks or higher flooring which you could’t see from the surface. “It’s typically the place you discover the items with character that make a house really feel collected,” Stanley says.
Cease for lunch at Chez Arnaud on rue des Rosiers on the entry to Marché Biron, the place you may as well sneak in a glass of wine if it’s essential work up the braveness for among the larger purchases you’re considering (or no less than that was my technique). You’re in France; it’s a part of the joie de vivre.
Although the flea is greatest identified for classic, you’ll additionally discover modern items from French designers and artists, a lot of which aren’t out there internationally.
Thomas’s greatest piece of recommendation? “Belief your intestine. In the event you find it irresistible—and it’ll match within the room, in fact, each actually and figuratively—it’ll work,” he says. “The primary piece I ever purchased was a Twenties membership chair with the unique leather-based and velvet seat upholstery. I used to be very younger, had little cash, however cherished the chair. It’s nonetheless in my bed room. I don’t keep in mind who I purchased it from, however I cherish it.”
Thomas’s Favourite Stalls to Go to
Thomas Bonzom
Marché Serpette, allée 4, stands 14 and 16
“I’ve labored with Thomas for a few years. He has a unprecedented eye; he sources essentially the most lovely antiques and now has his personal workshop creating distinctive furnishings, lighting, and mirrors.”
Labergère-Vauban
Marché Paul Bert, allée 1, stands 142 and 144
“Vincent and Remy make gorgeous plaster lamps, sconces, and mirrors, which I’ve included in lots of tasks, proven with an exquisite mixture of Twentieth-century European antiques.”
Laure Edouard
Marché Biron, allée 1, stand 16
“Silver specialist Laure has gorgeous Twentieth-century French bar equipment (shakers, ice buckets, bowls) and curiosities.”
Easy methods to Ship Your Purchases Dwelling
Most particular person sellers can ship objects instantly for you, however remember the fact that this tends to be the most costly choice.
In the event you’re shopping for loads or larger objects, it’s normally cheaper to ship the objects via an expert shipper. Most shippers will do the heavy lifting for you. You give them a listing of your objects they usually’ll go to every stall—even arranging for particular person funds and sending a consolidated bill when you select.
Hedley’s is Thomas’s shipper of alternative. He’s labored with them for over 20 years. “They’ve shipped everywhere in the world for me,” he says. “They’ve an amazing staff—are very organized {and professional} and at all times pleased to assist. They may accumulate all objects and pack and ship to your private home—door-to-door service, together with customs duties—from the smallest buy to a whole family. They’ve places of work on the flea market which can be open Saturday and Sunday, simply subsequent to the car parking zone in Marché Paul Bert.”
Euroline is one other stable alternative. There are additionally transport distributors on the flea, corresponding to EDET, and the person sellers will usually have somebody to suggest.
The place to Keep for Your Paris Flea Journey
Saint James Paris
Prints abound at this gorgeous château resort, designed by Laura Gonzalez. Every room is exclusive, full with an array of Pierre Frey materials, and the Guerlain spa and basement pool is the proper place to unwind after a protracted day of strolling the stalls. In spring and summer time, go to the pergola bar within the yard for cocktails.
Soho House Paris
Given its location in Pigalle, the resort is about quarter-hour nearer to the flea than the storied resorts within the 1st. The up-and-coming neighborhood can also be an amazing location to see a trendier, much less touristy facet of the town.
Cheval Blanc
The brand new Cheval Blanc, designed by Peter Marino, is a departure from the extra historic grand resorts that Paris is legendary for. It’s smooth and fashionable, with some of the expansive rooftop views in Paris, and its location within the 1st makes it handy for strolling to dinners and buying.



What to Put on
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Flat, snug footwear are key. I opted for these JW Anderson chain loafers, which give any outfit a very good dose of stylish whereas nonetheless being snug sufficient to stroll round in all day. A cute sneaker can also be an amazing choice.
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Chances are you’ll find yourself on the ground of a stall measuring an merchandise, so I’d suggest denim (I wore my trusty G. Label denims) or one thing flowy. Athleisure isn’t actually a factor in France, so skip the exercise garments.
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Maintain your jewellery easy and carry a bag that zips shut.