From St. Moritz to Zermatt: A Swiss Snowboarding Itinerary
Printed on: February 16, 2023
Written by: Ali Pew
St. Moritz has at all times appeared like the final word ski trip: nice meals scene, even higher people-watching, and a sunny Slim Aarons–esque vibe with a backdrop of snow-dusted chalets. Zermatt—a quaint village with beautiful views of the Matterhorn—seemed equally charming. I’m completely satisfied to report that neither city disappoints. To get between the 2, I took the scenic route—an eight-hour practice referred to as the Glacier Categorical—although for those who’d want a extra direct choice, it’s about 5 hours by automobile. Extra on that beneath, in my seven-day Swiss itinerary.
WHERE TO STAY
Checking in to the Kulm Hotel is form of like time touring, in one of the best ways. It opened in 1856 (it’s stated to be the birthplace of winter tourism in St. Moritz), and the foyer and eating places retain that old-world appeal—all coffered ceilings and handsomely upholstered walnut furnishings. However the rooms have been reworked with trendy creature comforts, like delicate, fluffy beds to sink into after an extended day on the slopes; heated toilet flooring; and ample closet area (skis, boots, and helmets might be stored within the ski lockers by the doorway). The combo of outdated and new makes for a fairly idyllic setting.
WHERE TO EAT
Cease for lunch on the newly renovated Kulm Country Club, the place chef Daniel Müller serves up Italian-Mediterranean delicacies with Asian influences (I extremely advocate the tuna tataki). For an informal dinner, Chesa Veglia pizzeria is a cute chalet-style joint full with checkered tablecloths, picket chairs, and an upstairs seating space the place you’ll be able to peer down and see the unique stone oven in motion. Langosteria’s newly opened ski-in, ski-out location gives the contemporary fish and seafood you’d count on, plus a particular caviar-topped baked potato—a part of the group’s collaboration with Caviar Kaspia.
WHERE TO SKI
Corviglia is probably the most accessible choice: Each 20 minutes, Kulm Lodge gives a shuttle that takes you into St. Moritz village, the place you’ll be able to catch the funicular that may take you up the mountain. There, you’ll discover groomed runs for any degree from newbie to superior, plus a number of locations to cease for meals or drink. Paradiso—with its spectacular views, expansive out of doors deck (which, on bluebird days, is usually bumping with home music), and high-low providing of oysters, fondue, and burgers—is a well-liked cease for skiers.
Corvatsch is a little more of a trek (a couple of 25-minute drive plus a few cable vehicles) however effectively price it. It has steeper, more difficult runs, just like the famed nine-kilometer Hahnensee run, and breathtaking views of the Engadin lakes. The one draw back is it’s simpler to get misplaced (we did). The Kuhstall is a comfortable place to refuel; it’s a former alpine cowshed tucked right into a run on the outskirts of the resort, with lengthy candlelit tables and superb pasta and chocolate cake.
ABOVE: Me, on not a really paradise-like ski day at Paradiso. RIGHT: My pho dish at Paradiso.
If you happen to want a down day, the Glacier Express is an effective way to get from St. Moritz to Zermatt. Select a window seat and benefit from the surroundings whizzing by; highlights embrace the Landwasser Viaduct (a single-track six-arch curved limestone railway) and the snow-blanketed Oberalp Move, which seems to be about how I think about the North Pole does.
WHERE TO STAY
Constructed on a rock shelf overlooking the city, The Omnia redefines mountain lodging with heat, trendy, not-at-all-rustic white-oak interiors and an emphasis on distinctive service (everybody, from the entrance desk clerk to the restaurant employees to the lodge supervisor, is so useful). The rooms have a minimalist aesthetic however are surprisingly environment friendly; initially I used to be a bit anxious about the place our three suitcases of ski garments would match, however after we unpacked, the whole lot had a spot. The perfect half, although? Our Matterhorn-facing balcony.
WHERE TO EAT
The Omnia’s menu is principally vegetarian-focused (although you do have the choice so as to add fish or meat to any dish). If you happen to’re searching for one thing a bit heartier and also you’re not against going off-site: Le Chalet da Giuseppe is like strolling into your Italian grandpa’s Swiss trip house—you’re greeted with flutes of champagne, a energetic crowd, and tables so shut, you’ll find yourself making associates along with your neighbors by the point the dessert cheese arrives.
BOTTOM: RIGHT: Our dessert cheese at Da Giuseppe.
WHERE TO SKI
Begin up the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise tram early, then make your method down the mountain and cross over to Sunnegga (this may take you just a few hours). Break for a leisurely lunch at Chez Vrony, which has majestic views of the Matterhorn. Make sure to reap the benefits of the sunbeds on the terrace—I recommend curling up with a wool blanket and a scorching chocolate—earlier than heading again onto the slopes.
FAR LEFT: My selfie with the Matterhorn. LEFT: The aforementioned views.
LAST STOP: SPA DAY AT THE DOLDER GRAND
If you happen to can afford to tack on an additional day or two, do it for the Dolder Grand. Simply 20 minutes from the Zurich airport, the modern lodge has two standout elements: the artwork (I’m speaking Takashi Murakami, Mel Ramos, and Duane Hanson items from the proprietor’s private assortment in all places you look) and the spa. It’s one of many greatest I’ve ever seen, with a big glassy swimming pool, indoor and out of doors whirlpools, saunas and steam baths, a sanarium, pebble loungers, and a plethora of rooms (meditation, exercise, therapy—you identify it). It’s the sort of place the place you’ll be able to simply spend a full day—and so they’re open late, which is good for those who’re there for less than an evening.
Final cease earlier than checkout: breakfast. There’s an assortment of wholesome juices and smoothies, acai bowls that rival those in LA, and chia puddings and yogurts, in addition to extra savory choices—all served in what looks like a contemporary artwork gallery with shiny daylight streaming in.
ABOVE: The view from my room within the spa wing. RIGHT: The breakfast room on the Dolder Grand.
The whole lot is cumbersome, so a less-is-more technique actually helps right here. I positively advocate renting boots, skis, and poles on the ski hill to keep away from any schlepping or ready on the airport for oversize baggage. (Notice: If you happen to do determine to deliver your individual gear, it travels without spending a dime with Swiss Airways—nevertheless it received’t be simple to haul onto the Glacier Categorical.)
For this journey, I packed my normal base—a merino turtleneck and leggings that had been thick sufficient to put on to breakfast with out something over them—plus just a few Alps & Meters items, which had been w-a-r-m (and I’ve tried quite a lot of ski garments in my life). Oftentimes you’ll sacrifice kind for operate, however that was not the case right here. The pink knit had a fantastic slim form, the pants had a flattering leather-based stripe from waist to foot, and the quilted down jacket had a cute shearling-lined hood that match over a helmet for after I actually wanted to bundle. The whole lot from Alps & Meters comes with a lifetime guarantee on sturdiness, making them true funding items. Final however not least, I’ve to shout out these Hestra touch-point gloves, which let me textual content with out exposing my naked fingers to the chilly, and this full balaclava (not cute however obligatory).
Decked out in Alps & Meters.
I allowed myself three sweaters—a printed one, a trend one, and a good-for-travel one—after which constructed my outfits round these. Thick knits and excessive necks name for one thing round your face, therefore the earrings. Any sneakers I introduced had to have the ability to deal with a snowy stroll to dinner. I additionally threw in some Swiss-dot tights to layer below pants.
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In my carry-on went the whole lot else: a change of garments for touchdown, a wear-everywhere hood (I like that this one isn’t too tight or confining), an arsenal of TSA-friendly merchandise to battle dry winter air, and my normal in-flight necessities. I ended up pocketing just a few face wipes to make use of throughout lunch breaks on the ski hill—very refreshing.
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